Audemars Piguet: history, models and value

Founded

1875

Founder(s)

Jules Louis Audemars, Edward Auguste Piguet

Headquarters

Le Brassus

Owner / group

Independent (family-owned)

Audemars Piguet: origins and founding

Audemars Piguet (AP) was founded in 1875 in Le Brassus, in the Vallée de Joux. This high valley in the Jura mountains had a long tradition of farmers who made watch parts and complicated movements during the long winters. From the start, AP specialized in complicated watches: repeaters, calendars and chronographs. In 1881 the partnership was officially registered as Audemars Piguet & Cie.

Founders and family

Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet were two young watchmakers from the valley. More than 150 years later, the company says it is the oldest watch manufacturer still in the hands of its founding families. Olivier Audemars, a member of the family, is vice chairman of the board.

Audemars Piguet history and milestones

• 1881: Audemars Piguet & Cie is registered in Le Brassus.
• 1892: AP makes a minute-repeater movement that is sold to Louis Brandt & Frère (later Omega).
• 1899: A "Grande Complication" pocket watch with seven complications.
• 1921: A jumping-hour wristwatch; the same year AP completes the astronomical pocket watch later called the "Grosse Pièce".
• 1934: First skeleton watch.
• 1955: First perpetual calendar wristwatch.
• 1972: The Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta, is presented in Basel. A luxury watch in steel was a bold move during the quartz crisis.
• 1986: An ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon wristwatch.
• Early 1990s: AP takes a majority stake in Renaud & Papi, a complications specialist in Le Locle.
• 1993: The Royal Oak Offshore, a bigger and sportier Royal Oak.
• 2002: The high-tech Royal Oak Concept.
• 2019: Launch of the Code 11.59 collection.
• 2020: The Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet opens in Le Brassus.

Famous Audemars Piguet models

• Royal Oak – octagonal bezel with eight screws, integrated bracelet and "Tapisserie" dial. The thin "Jumbo" models (from the original ref. 5402 to the 15202 and its successors) and the ref. 15500/15510 "Selfwinding" are the best-known references.
• Royal Oak Offshore – larger chronographs, often in special materials.
• Royal Oak Concept – avant-garde, mostly high complications.
• Code 11.59 – round watches with an octagonal middle case.
• Jules Audemars and Millenary – classic and oval dress watches.
• Vintage dress watches and complications from before 1972, often in gold.

Movements and technique

AP is known for complications: minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, tourbillons and ultra-thin movements. The classic Jumbo used calibre 2121, a very thin automatic movement. Modern Royal Oak and Code 11.59 three-hand watches use AP's in-house calibre 4302. The work of Renaud & Papi, today Audemars Piguet Le Locle, supplies much of the high-complication know-how.

Audemars Piguet today

AP remains independent and family-owned, with its headquarters in Le Brassus and further production in Le Locle. CEO is Ilaria Resta. The brand sits at the top of the market (haute horlogerie), and the Royal Oak family dominates its sales.

Audemars Piguet prices on the pre-owned market

Steel Royal Oaks, especially the Jumbo and the 41 mm Selfwinding, are among the most traded luxury watches. In recent years many have sold above their retail price, although prices move up and down. Offshores are more uneven: popular references hold up, while some limited editions sell below retail. Older dress watches and the Millenary are usually much cheaper than a Royal Oak. Value depends heavily on the exact reference, dial color, condition of the brushed and polished surfaces (overpolishing hurts), and a full set with box and papers.

At the top end, a documented record: in December 2025 the "Grosse Pièce", an astronomical pocket watch with 19 complications completed by AP in 1921, sold at Sotheby's New York for about USD 7.7 million. AP itself bought it.

How to recognise a genuine Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak is one of the most copied watches in the world. Check the details: eight hexagonal screws on the bezel lined up correctly, a sharp and even Tapisserie pattern, an "AP" logo and clean printing on the dial, and a caseback engraved with the case number and serial. On modern pieces the movement, seen through the sapphire back, should be finely finished and match the reference (for example calibre 4302 in a current 41 mm Royal Oak). Watch out for "franken" watches with aftermarket dials, replaced bracelets or polished cases. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch has more checks.

What is your Audemars Piguet worth?

Photograph the dial, caseback and bracelet clasp and start a free watch value estimate. Royal Oak prices vary a lot by reference, so a precise picture helps. For an estate, insurance or a sale between family members, you can also order a written watch appraisal.

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