Guide
Watch condition explained
After the reference, condition is the biggest price factor. Unlike coins, watches have no single official grading scale, but dealers and auction houses describe condition in similar steps.
Condition grades in plain words
| Grade | What it means |
|---|---|
| Unworn / new old stock | Never worn, usually with protective stickers, complete set |
| Mint | Worn very little, no visible marks without magnification |
| Excellent | Light signs of wear, fine scratches on case or bracelet |
| Very good | Normal wear from use, small scratches and marks |
| Good | Clear signs of wear, possibly small dents or a stretched bracelet |
| Fair | Heavy wear, damage, missing or non-original parts |
Polishing: why less is more
Polishing removes scratches by removing metal. Done often or badly, it rounds the edges of the case and lugs and softens bevels. Collectors pay more for unpolished cases, especially for vintage watches.
Original parts
During a service, brands sometimes replace dials, hands, bezels or crowns. For modern watches this is normal; for vintage watches, original parts are worth much more. Keep any parts you get back from a service.
Dial and patina
The dial is the face of the watch and has a large influence on value. Even ageing of the luminous material can be appreciated on vintage pieces. Water damage, spots or a repainted dial reduce the value.
When a service pays off
- When the watch doesn't run or loses a lot of time.
- When moisture has got in.
- Not just to make the watch look "nicer" before selling: buyers often prefer to choose the service themselves.
Not sure about your watch's condition? Start with a free estimate.
Frequently asked questions
Can I judge the condition of a watch from a photo?
Only roughly. Fine scratches, polishing and the movement can't be judged fully from photos. Our estimate gives an indicative condition in plain words.
Does a service increase the value?
A recent service by the brand can help, especially if the watch didn't run. But it costs money, and a service that replaces original parts can lower the value of a vintage watch.
Find out what your watch is worth
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