Tudor: history, models and value

Founded

1926

Founder(s)

Hans Wilsdorf

Headquarters

Geneva

Owner / group

Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (Rolex)

Tudor: origins and founding

In February 1926 the watch dealer "Veuve de Philippe Hüther" registered the trademark "The TUDOR" on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, who held the exclusive rights to use it. Wilsdorf wanted a watch that Rolex agents could sell at a more modest price, but that was just as dependable. Early Tudor watches were sold in markets such as Australia, and some dials also carried the Rolex name.

Founders and family

Hans Wilsdorf, born in Germany, founded Rolex and built Tudor as its more affordable partner. In 1936 the Tudor brand was transferred back to him, and on 6 March 1946 he founded Montres TUDOR S.A. to give the brand its own identity. Rolex continued to set the technical standards and handled distribution and service. After Wilsdorf's death, both brands came under the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation.

Tudor history and milestones

• 1926: the Tudor trademark is registered.
• 1936: the Tudor rose inside a shield appears on dials.
• 1946: Montres TUDOR S.A. is founded.
• 1947: Tudor Oyster models with waterproof Oyster cases signed Tudor.
• 1952: the Oyster Prince, Tudor's first self-winding model.
• 1954: the Oyster Prince Submariner, water-resistant to 100 meters.
• 1960s–1980s: Tudor divers are issued to the French Navy (Marine Nationale); from 1964 Tudor also makes Submariners for the US Navy.
• Late 1960s: the square "Snowflake" hands and the shield logo on the dial.
• 2010: the Heritage Chrono.
• 2012: the Heritage Black Bay and the titanium Pelagos.
• 2013: Tudor returns to the US market.
• 2015: the North Flag, the first Tudor with an in-house movement.

Famous Tudor models

• Oyster and Oyster Prince: classic dress and everyday watches from the 1940s to the 1990s, often with Rolex-signed cases and crowns.
• Submariner: vintage references such as the 7922, 7924, 7016, 7021 and 9401, and the later 79090.
• Black Bay: the modern diver family that revived Tudor's popularity.
• Pelagos: a titanium professional diver.
• Heritage Chrono and Ranger: models inspired by Tudor's vintage chronographs and field watches.

Movements and technique

For decades Tudor combined Rolex Oyster cases, crowns and bracelets with movements bought from ETA. That was the key to its lower price. Vintage Submariners such as the 7016 and 7021 use ETA automatics. Since 2015 Tudor has its own movements, starting with the MT5621 in the North Flag. Today these movements are made by Kenissi, a movement maker set up by Tudor in 2016, with a factory in Le Locle since 2018. Kenissi also supplies movements to other brands such as Chanel, Breitling and Norqain.

Tudor today

Montres Tudor SA is based in Geneva and belongs to the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, which also owns Rolex. Tudor sits in the upper-mid to lower luxury segment, below Rolex. Its modern collections focus on sports and dive watches such as the Black Bay and Pelagos.

Tudor prices on the pre-owned market

Tudor has a strong pre-owned market. Vintage Submariners are the most sought-after pieces, especially references with Snowflake hands and watches with proven Marine Nationale history. Navy issue must be documented, as markings and stories are often added later. Original dials, hands and bezels, and unpolished cases matter a lot.

Older Oyster and Oyster Prince watches are popular as affordable vintage pieces with a Rolex connection. Modern Black Bay and Pelagos models generally hold their value better than many brands in the same price range, but usually still sell below retail. Box, papers and service history help.

How to recognise a genuine Tudor

Tudor is often faked, and vintage pieces are often "frankened" with replacement dials and hands. Check that the case, crown and bracelet match the reference. Vintage Oyster models should have the correct Rolex-made case parts where expected, and the dial should show the rose or shield logo appropriate to the period. On modern Tudors, the movement and caseback details should match the official specifications of the model. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch covers the basics.

What is your Tudor worth?

Whether you inherited an old Tudor Oyster or own a recent Black Bay, our free watch value estimate gives you a first price range from photos. For estates, insurance or sales, a written watch appraisal is available too.

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