Swiss watch brand
Breitling: history, models and value
Breitling is best known for pilot's chronographs such as the Navitimer and Chronomat. Here is the brand's story in short, plus what matters if you want to know what your Breitling is worth.
- Founded
- 1884
- Founder(s)
- Léon Breitling
- Headquarters
- Grenchen
- Owner / group
- Majority owned by Partners Group
Breitling: origins and founding
Léon Breitling founded the company in 1884 in Saint-Imier, in the Bernese Jura. From the start the business focused on chronographs and timing instruments rather than simple time-only watches. The company later moved to La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Founders and family
Three generations of the Breitling family ran the firm. After Léon's death in 1914, his son Gaston took over. In 1935 the business passed to Léon's grandson, Willy Breitling, who led it through the golden age of the pilot's chronograph and up to the quartz crisis of the 1970s.
Breitling history and milestones
- 1915: Gaston Breitling launches a wrist chronograph with a separate push-piece at 2 o'clock.
- 1934: Willy Breitling patents a second, independent pusher at 4 o'clock, the layout most chronographs still use.
- 1942: the Chronomat is introduced.
- Early 1950s: the Navitimer arrives, a pilot's chronograph with a slide-rule bezel for flight calculations.
- 1962: astronaut Scott Carpenter wears a 24-hour Navitimer in space; the Cosmonaute model follows.
- 1969: Breitling is one of the partners behind the first self-winding chronograph movements and launches an automatic Navitimer.
- 1978–1979: the La Chaux-de-Fonds factory closes in the quartz crisis. Ernest Schneider buys the Breitling name and moves the business to his Sicura company in Grenchen.
- 2009: the first in-house chronograph movement, the B01, appears in the Chronomat.
- 2017–2018: CVC Capital Partners buys the company from the Schneider family.
- 2022: Partners Group takes a majority stake.
- 2023: Breitling acquires Universal Genève.
Famous Breitling models
- Navitimer: the classic pilot's chronograph with a circular slide rule. Many owners have one.
- Chronomat: first launched in 1942 and revived in several forms, from vintage pieces to the modern "rouleaux" bracelet versions.
- Superocean: the diving line.
- Emergency: a watch with a built-in distress beacon. Since 2013 it has also transmitted on the 406 MHz satellite frequency.
- Vintage chronographs: Top Time, Co-Pilot and many unnamed models from the 1940s to 1970s.
Movements and technique
For decades Breitling bought its movements from specialist makers, especially Valjoux and Venus for vintage chronographs and ETA-based movements for many modern models. Since 2009 its own B01 chronograph calibre has powered many Navitimer and Chronomat models. Breitling has its movements certified as chronometers by COSC, the official Swiss testing office.
Breitling today
Breitling is headquartered in Grenchen, with movement production in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Since 2022 Partners Group holds the majority. Breitling sits in the upper mid-range to luxury segment, below the haute horlogerie houses. It now also owns the revived Universal Genève brand.
Breitling prices on the pre-owned market
Breitling is widely traded on the pre-owned market. Because there are many watches for sale, most modern quartz and ETA-based models sell well below their original retail price. Watches with the in-house B01, limited editions and models in good condition with box and papers hold their value better.
Vintage pieces follow other rules. Early Navitimers, Cosmonaute models and 1940s to 1960s chronographs with original dials are collected. Redialled or heavily polished watches, and watches assembled from mixed parts, are worth much less. Service records help. Watches from the Willy Breitling era (before 1979) and those from the Schneider era (after 1979) are separate collecting fields, so it is worth knowing which one you have. Military or aviation provenance can add interest, but only when it is documented.
How to recognise a genuine Breitling
Breitling is widely faked, especially the Navitimer, Chronomat and Bentley-branded models. Check the weight, the quality of the slide-rule bezel printing, the alignment of the subdials and how smoothly the chronograph pushers work. On modern pieces, the reference and serial number on the case should match the papers. Vintage watches need a check of the dial and movement by a specialist, since redials are common. More tips: how to spot a fake watch.
What is your Breitling worth?
Take photos of the dial, the caseback and the clasp, and use our free watch value estimate. If you need a written value for an estate, insurance or a divorce settlement, you can order a watch appraisal.
Frequently asked questions
Who owns Breitling?
Since 2022 the investment firm Partners Group holds the majority of Breitling. From 1979 to 2017 the brand belonged to the Schneider family, then to CVC Capital Partners.
Do Breitling watches hold their value?
Most modern Breitlings sell below their original retail price on the pre-owned market. In-house B01 models, limited editions and collectible vintage chronographs tend to do better.
Is my vintage Breitling Navitimer valuable?
Early Navitimers and Cosmonaute models with original dials and good condition are sought after. A redialled or heavily polished watch is worth much less, so an expert check of dial and movement matters.
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