Christophe Claret: history, models and value

Founded

1989

Founder(s)

Christophe Claret

Headquarters

Le Locle

Owner / group

Independent

Christophe Claret: origins and founding

Christophe Claret was born in Lyon, France. He discovered watchmaking at 14, trained at the Geneva watchmaking school and then spent a year working with master watchmaker Roger Dubuis. Back in Lyon, he restored antique watches and made skeleton watches in a workshop at his family home.

His break came in 1987 at the Basel fair, when Rolf Schnyder of Ulysse Nardin ordered 20 minute-repeater movements from him. In 1989 he founded Christophe Claret SA.

Christophe Claret history and milestones

• 1987: first major order, from Ulysse Nardin.
• 1989: Christophe Claret SA is founded.
• 1999: move to the Manoir du Soleil d'Or in Le Locle, a villa that once belonged to the watchmaker Urban Jürgensen. Extensions followed in 2002, 2003 and 2008.
• 2009: for the company's 20th anniversary, Claret launches his first watch under his own name, the DualTow.
• 2010 to 2014: a series of unusual complications follows, including the Adagio, 21 Blackjack, Baccara, X-Trem-1, Soprano, Kantharos, Poker, Maestoso and the ladies' model Margot.

Famous Christophe Claret models

All Christophe Claret watches are limited series, often of fewer than 100 pieces per version. Best known are the "gaming" watches:

• 21 Blackjack (2011): plays blackjack, dice and roulette on the dial.
• Baccara (2012) and Poker (2014): card games built into a mechanical watch.
• Margot (2014): a ladies' watch with a "he loves me, he loves me not" petal game.
• DualTow, X-Trem-1 and Maestoso: tourbillons and unusual time displays.
• Adagio, Soprano and Kantharos: chiming watches and chronographs.

Movements and technique

Claret's company designed complicated movements for brands such as Ulysse Nardin, Harry Winston, Franck Muller, de Grisogono and Maîtres du Temps. It makes almost all components in-house and buys in only parts such as jewels, hairsprings, mainsprings and crystals. It also developed its own production machines and sold some to other manufacturers, including Rolex and Patek Philippe.

Christophe Claret today

Christophe Claret SA is an independent manufacture in Le Locle, in the haute horlogerie segment. In 2015 it had more than 100 employees, and its own-brand watches made up about 60% of production. It still works as a supplier of complicated movements to other brands.

Christophe Claret prices on the pre-owned market

Christophe Claret watches are rare on the pre-owned market and sell to a small circle of collectors of independent watchmaking. Because each model was made in tiny numbers, there are few comparable sales, and prices vary widely. Value depends on the model and complication, the case metal, full papers and a documented service history. Servicing should be done by the manufacture, which matters for any buyer.

How to recognise a genuine Christophe Claret

Fakes are rare, but always check that the case number and limited-edition number match the papers. The complicated movements are very hard to copy, and the brand can confirm a watch's history. Also note: many movements Claret built carry another brand's name on the dial. For general checks, see how to spot a fake watch.

What is your Christophe Claret worth?

For a first orientation, upload photos to our free watch value estimate. For a rare piece like this, a written watch appraisal is useful for insurance or an estate.

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