De Bethune: history, models and value

Founded

2002

Founder(s)

Denis Flageollet, David Zanetta

Headquarters

L'Auberson

Owner / group

Independent

De Bethune: origins and founding

De Bethune was founded in 2002 by watchmaker Denis Flageollet and David Zanetta, a watch-industry veteran and vintage watch dealer. Its workshops are in L'Auberson, a village in the Jura mountains of canton Vaud. From the start the idea was to combine classical watchmaking with modern design and new mechanical solutions.

Founders and family

Denis Flageollet is the technical and watchmaking head of the company and the mind behind its movements. David Zanetta brought the business side and owned the majority of the company until 2017.

De Bethune history and milestones

• 2002: founding by Flageollet and Zanetta.
• Since then: more than 30 calibres designed in its own workshops and several patents filed.
• 2017: after years of losses, Zanetta sold his majority stake. Pierre Jacques became CEO, and according to the company the business has been profitable since.
• 2021: Watchbox, a US pre-owned watch dealer, took the largest stake. The other shareholders were Pierre Jacques, Denis Flageollet and US retailer Steven Rostovsky.
• 2026: the LVDB-03 project with Louis Vuitton was presented.

De Bethune has also won the Aiguille d'Or, the top prize of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.

Famous De Bethune models

• DB28 – the brand's signature model, with patented floating lugs that adapt to the wrist. Versions include the ultra-thin DB28XP and the smaller DB28XS (38.7 mm).
• DB25 – a round, drum-shaped case with hollowed lugs; often with moon phase or GMT.
• DB27 – combines DB28 style with the classic DB25 shape.
• DB29 – inspired by 18th-century pocket watches, with a hinged double caseback.
• DB Kind of Two – a reversible watch with two faces.
• DBD (Digitale) and DB Eight – a digital-hour display and a monopusher chronograph.

Movements and technique

De Bethune designs its own movements; the brand counts 31 calibres and eight patents. Its watches are known for unusual displays, such as digital hours and moon phases, for the Maxichrono chronograph in the DB29, and for heat-blued titanium and polished finishes.

De Bethune today

De Bethune is an independent manufacture in the haute horlogerie segment. In 2021 it made about 150 to 200 watches a year, sold mainly through selected retailers. Many pieces are unique or made in very small series.

De Bethune prices on the pre-owned market

De Bethune is a collector's brand, and pre-owned watches trade among a fairly small group of enthusiasts. DB28 models, especially those in blued titanium or with complications, are the best known. Prices vary widely by model, material and complication. Because production is small, condition, a full set with box and papers, and service history weigh heavily. Older pieces should be serviced by the brand or a specialist familiar with its movements.

How to recognise a genuine De Bethune

De Bethune watches are made in small numbers, so every piece should have an individual number that matches its papers. Check the quality of the finishing: mirror-polished and blued parts should be flawless. The floating lugs of a DB28 should move smoothly. For an expensive purchase, ask the brand or an authorized retailer to confirm the serial number. More tips: how to spot a fake watch.

What is your De Bethune worth?

Because so few De Bethune watches change hands, a good valuation needs clear photos. Start with our free watch value estimate; for insurance or an estate, you can also order a written watch appraisal.

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