Ernest Borel: history, models and value

Founded

1856

Founder(s)

Jules Borel, Paul Courvoisier

Headquarters

Le Noirmont

Owner / group

Ernest Borel Holdings (Hong Kong), Citychamp holds a stake

Ernest Borel: origins and founding

The company began in Neuchâtel as Borel & Courvoisier, a partnership of Jules-Alphonse Borel and his brother-in-law Paul Courvoisier. Today's brand gives 1856 as its founding year. Historical records show the partnership formed in 1858, taking over the business of Henri Reynier Fils, and for its first 100 years the company itself cited 1859. Early on it made pocket watches and won awards at the world's fairs in Philadelphia in 1876 and Paris in 1878.

Founders and family

Jules Borel (1832–1898) and Paul Courvoisier (1834–1896) ran the firm until Courvoisier retired in 1894. Jules's son Ernest Borel (1869–1951) took over the management that year, and in 1898 the company became Ernest Borel & Cie. Ernest's son Jean-Louis Borel (1903–1993) joined in 1927 and led the company after the Second World War. The Borel family ran the business until the late 1960s.

Ernest Borel history and milestones

• 1947: a new factory in Neuchâtel and the in-house "Incastar" regulating device.
• 1953: the Cocktail watch with a moving kaleidoscope dial, developed from 1951 by Henry DuPasquier.
• 1968–1969: the company was renamed Synchron SA and became a holding that also took in Doxa and Cyma.
• Around 1980: after the quartz crisis, the Synchron brands passed to Aubry Frères and Ernest Borel was effectively dormant.
• 1997: Chinese investors relaunched the brand in La Chaux-de-Fonds, with Raphaël Boillat as CEO.
• 2009: move to Le Noirmont in the canton of Jura.
• 2014: the parent company, Ernest Borel Holdings, was listed on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange.
• 2018: Citychamp Watch & Jewellery Group acquired a stake.

Famous Ernest Borel models

The Cocktail is the watch most people associate with Ernest Borel. Its dial has a pattern that seems to move and change like a kaleidoscope as the watch runs. Since the relaunch, Ernest Borel has made mostly classic dress and casual watches for men and women. Its logo shows a dancing couple in 19th-century dress.

Movements and technique

Ernest Borel mostly used movements from outside suppliers, above all ETA, with some from FHF. Its own contribution was the Incastar regulating device of 1947. Modern Ernest Borel watches use automatic and quartz movements.

Ernest Borel today

Ernest Borel is based in Le Noirmont, Switzerland, and its parent company is listed in Hong Kong. The brand sells automatic and quartz watches in the entry-to-mid price segment, roughly from several hundred to a few thousand US dollars.

Ernest Borel prices on the pre-owned market

Vintage Cocktail watches are the most collectible pieces, especially with a clean, original kaleidoscope dial and a working movement. Solid gold cases add value. Modern Ernest Borel watches usually resell well below their retail price. Box and papers help with modern pieces, while dial condition is the main factor for vintage ones.

How to recognise a genuine Ernest Borel

On a vintage Cocktail, the dial pattern should turn smoothly as the watch runs. Check that the dial, hands and case fit the period and that the movement is signed or matches the model. Watch for redials and replaced crowns. Our guide on how to spot a fake watch has more general checks.

What is your Ernest Borel worth?

Want to know what your Ernest Borel could fetch? Send us photos of the dial and caseback for a free watch value estimate. For estates and insurance, a written watch appraisal is available as well.

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