MB&F: history, Machines and value

Founded

2005

Founder(s)

Maximilian Büsser

Headquarters

Geneva

Owner / group

Independent (Chanel holds a 25% minority stake)

MB&F: origins and founding

Maximilian Büsser founded MB&F in Geneva in July 2005. The name stands for "Maximilian Büsser and Friends": instead of a classic in-house team, each watch is developed together with independent watchmakers, engineers and designers who are credited for their work. From the start, the company called its watches "Machines" rather than watches.

Founders and family

Büsser studied engineering at EPFL in Lausanne and earned a degree in microtechnology in 1991. He then spent seven years as a senior executive at Jaeger-LeCoultre. From 1998 to 2005 he ran Harry Winston Rare Timepieces, where he launched the Opus series, complicated watches made with independent watchmakers. That idea of collaboration became the basis of MB&F. Serge Kriknoff, head of research, development and production, is a co-owner.

MB&F history and milestones

• 2007: Horological Machine No. 1 (HM1), the first piece.
• 2010: HM4 Thunderbolt wins Best Concept and Design Watch at the GPHG.
• 2011: Legacy Machine No. 1 (LM1), a round, more traditional line; the first M.A.D. Gallery ("Mechanical Art Devices") opens in Geneva.
• 2012: LM1 wins Best Men's Watch and the Public Prize at the GPHG.
• 2016: Legacy Machine Perpetual, with a perpetual calendar developed by Stephen McDonnell, wins Best Calendar Watch at the GPHG.
• 2019: LM FlyingT wins Best Ladies' Complication at the GPHG.
• 2022: LM Sequential EVO wins the Aiguille d'Or, the GPHG's top prize.
• 2024: Chanel buys a 25% minority stake.

Famous MB&F models

• Horological Machines (HM): the experimental line, with shapes inspired by cars, planes and science fiction, such as the HM4 Thunderbolt and HM6.
• Legacy Machines (LM): round cases and a balance wheel floating above the dial, inspired by 19th-century watchmaking. Examples include the LM1, LM Perpetual, LM FlyingT and LM Sequential EVO.
• Co-creations: clocks and objects made with partner companies, sold through the M.A.D. Galleries.

Movements and technique

MB&F movements are built specifically for each Machine, usually with a partner watchmaker or engineer who is named publicly. Many show three-dimensional architecture: domed displays, vertical dials and balances lifted high above the movement. The Legacy Machine Perpetual, for example, uses a perpetual calendar designed by Stephen McDonnell.

MB&F today

MB&F is still based in Geneva and run by Büsser. After Chanel's 2024 investment, he holds 60% and Kriknoff 15%; Chanel has a right of first refusal on future share sales. Production is small: 419 watches in 2023, according to the company. MB&F belongs to the independent haute horlogerie segment, with M.A.D. Galleries in Geneva, Dubai and Taipei.

MB&F prices on the pre-owned market

Because output is only a few hundred pieces a year, many models are rare on the secondary market. Early Horological Machines, GPHG-winning Legacy Machines and small limited editions draw the most collector interest. Value depends heavily on the exact model and edition, the metal, full box and papers, and a service history from MB&F. Unusual case shapes make condition important: dents or polishing on complex cases and domed crystals reduce value.

How to recognise a genuine MB&F

Each Machine has a highly unusual movement that is very hard to copy convincingly; most fakes reuse a simple movement under a look-alike case. Compare the movement and finishing with official photos of the exact model, check that the individual number and edition match the papers, and if in doubt ask MB&F or an authorized retailer. General tips are in our guide on how to spot a fake watch.

What is your MB&F worth?

For a first idea, upload photos and get a free watch value estimate. Given the value of most Machines, a signed written watch appraisal is useful for insurance or an estate.

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