Squale: history, models and value

Founded

1959

Founder(s)

Charles von Büren

Headquarters

Chiasso

Owner / group

Independent (Maggi family)

Squale: origins and founding

Squale was founded in 1959 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, by Charles von Büren. He had already been making cases and assembling watches under his own name for about a decade. Von Büren was a keen diver, and the name Squale comes from the word for shark. The brand registered the Squale and Super-Squale trademarks and patented its case designs the same year.

At first Squale was mainly a case maker. In the 1960s and 1970s it supplied water-resistant dive cases to other brands, including Blancpain, Heuer and Doxa. That is why some vintage watches from other makers have Squale-made cases.

Founders and family

Charles von Büren ran the business until his retirement. In the 1980s the Maggi family, who had been Italian distributors of his watches, took over the brand. Today the company is still family-run, led by Andrea Maggi, who followed his father.

Squale history and milestones

• 1959: Squale is founded in Neuchâtel.
• 1962: first watches under the Squale name.
• 1968: the 2002 case, Squale's first case rated to 1,000 meters.
• 1970s: the 1521 case with its crown at 4 o'clock. It was used by the Italian Navy, and Squale also supplied watches to Italian military divers and paratroopers.
• 1980s: the quartz crisis. Squale moved to quartz watches and faded from international markets.
• 2000s–2010s: relaunch under the Maggi family, run from Milan with watchmaking in Chiasso.
• 2020: headquarters moved fully to Chiasso, Switzerland.

Famous Squale models

• 1521 (50 Atmos): the best-known Squale. A 500-meter case with the crown at 4 o'clock and a flat crystal.
• 2002: the cushion-shaped 1,000-meter diver from 1968.
• Master: a deep-diving model line, first introduced in the late 1960s and revived in modern form.
• 20 Atmos and 30 Atmos: modern divers based on 1960s designs.
• Matic, SUB-39 and T-183: newer collections, the T-183 being the first Squale in fiberglass and carbon.

Movements and technique

Squale does not make its own movements. Modern models such as the 1521 use Swiss automatic movements from Sellita, for example the SW 200-1 in an upgraded "Elaboré" grade. The brand's real strength has always been the case: thick, water-resistant steel cases built for diving. Some quartz models were made during the 1980s.

Squale today

Squale is an independent, family-owned company based in Chiasso in the Swiss canton of Ticino. It sits in the entry-to-mid price segment of mechanical dive watches and is popular with collectors who like tool watches with real diving history.

Squale prices on the pre-owned market

Modern Squale watches usually sell for less than their retail price, like most watches in this segment. The 1521 is the most liquid model because it is the one most buyers know. Vintage Squale watches from the 1960s and 1970s are more interesting to collectors, especially when the dial, bezel and case are original. Watches with documented military use can attract extra attention, but only with solid proof. Full sets with box and papers sell more easily. Heavy polishing, replaced bezels and redone dials lower the value.

How to recognise a genuine Squale

Look for the shark logo on the dial and clean, even printing. Squale cases are engraved on the caseback, and the 50 Atmos case carries a serial number. On a 1521 the crown should sit at 4 o'clock and screw down firmly. Vintage watches are often mixed with replacement parts, so check that bezel insert, hands and dial fit the period. If in doubt, read our guide on how to spot a fake watch.

What is your Squale worth?

Take a few clear photos of the dial, caseback and clasp and use our free watch value estimate. It gives you a quick idea of the market value. For estates, insurance or a sale, you can also order a written watch appraisal.

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